How to Inspect a Used Car
These are the checks every used car needs, whatever the make. Do them in this order. Then add the checklist for the exact model and year you are looking at, which covers the faults that car is known for.
01Before you go
Most bad cars can be ruled out from your couch. Do this part first and you will waste fewer Saturdays.
- Get the VIN from the seller and run a history report. Look for accidents, salvage, rebuilt or flood title brands, and odometer readings that go backwards.
- Look the VIN up on NHTSA's recall site (nhtsa.gov/recalls) and note any recall that is still open.
- Ask why they are selling, how long they have owned it, and whether it has any warning lights on right now.
- Ask for service records. A stack of oil change receipts says more about a car than a clean interior.
- Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive. Some problems only show in the first minute after a cold start.
- Find the model-year checklist for the car on this site so you know which known faults to look for.
02What to bring
None of this is expensive, and all of it fits in a bag.
- A flashlight, even in daylight, for the engine bay, wheel wells, and underneath.
- Paper towels or a rag to wipe the dipstick and check fluid color.
- A cheap OBD-II code reader. A recently cleared fault code hides problems the dash will not show.
- A friend, who can watch for smoke at the tailpipe and lights at the back while you drive.
- Your driver's license and proof of insurance, since most sellers will ask before a test drive.
03Walk around the outside
Walk slowly around the car twice, once standing and once crouched at wheel height.
- Uneven gaps between panels, or a door, hood, or bumper in a slightly different shade, point to accident repair.
- Paint overspray on rubber seals, trim, or the edges of glass means a panel was repainted.
- Check for rust bubbles at the wheel arches, the bottoms of the doors, and the rocker panels under the doors.
- Look at all four tires. Uneven wear across the tread means alignment or suspension trouble. Mismatched brands on one axle are worth a question.
- Read the four-digit date code on each tire's sidewall (week and year). Tires older than about six years need replacing whatever the tread looks like.
- Look for chips or cracks in the windshield and haze or moisture inside the headlight lenses.
04Under the hood, engine cold
Put your hand on the hood before you open it. If it is warm, the seller has already started the car.
- Pull the oil dipstick. Oil should be between the marks. Milky or foamy oil can mean coolant is getting in; oil that smells of fuel is also a warning.
- Check the coolant level in the reservoir, and look for crusty residue around the cap and hoses.
- Look for wet patches, fresh drips, or an engine bay that has been scrubbed spotless, which can hide leaks.
- Squeeze the larger rubber hoses and look at the drive belt for cracks or fraying.
- Look at the battery for corrosion on the terminals and a date sticker more than four or five years old.
05Cold start
Stand where you can see the tailpipe, or have your friend do it, while the seller starts the car.
- Every warning light should come on with the key and go out within a few seconds of starting.
- Listen for rattles, ticking, or knocking in the first seconds, before the oil has reached everything.
- Blue smoke means the engine burns oil. White smoke that keeps coming after warm-up can mean coolant is burning. A little vapor on a cold day is normal.
- Plug in the code reader and check for stored or pending codes, and whether monitors show as not ready, a sign codes were cleared recently.
06Inside the car
Use your nose first. Then press every button.
- A musty or mildew smell, or damp carpet under the mats, points to a water leak or flood damage.
- Compare wear on the steering wheel, pedals, and driver's seat bolster with the mileage. Heavy wear on a low-mileage car does not add up.
- Run the air conditioning on cold and the heater on hot. Both should change temperature within a minute or two.
- Test every window, lock, mirror, seat adjustment, the sunroof, the infotainment screen, the backup camera, and every seat belt buckle.
- Make sure the airbag light goes out after start-up and stays out.
07Test drive
Aim for at least 20 minutes, on roads that include stop-and-go, rough pavement, and highway speed.
- On a straight road the car should track straight without you holding the wheel off-center.
- Brake firmly from about 40 mph. It should stop straight, with no pulsing in the pedal or squeal.
- Automatic transmissions should shift smoothly, with no slipping, flaring revs, or thumps between gears.
- Accelerate hard onto a highway. Hesitation, a flashing check engine light, or a sudden loss of power are deal-breakers until diagnosed.
- Drive over bumps with the radio off and listen for clunks. Turn the wheel fully each way in a parking lot and listen for clicks.
- Feel for vibration through the wheel or seat at highway speed.
08After the drive
Leave the engine running for a minute, then shut it off and look again.
- Look under the car for new drips now that everything is hot.
- Check for new warning lights, and any smell of coolant, burning oil, or hot brakes.
- Check the title: the name should match the seller's ID, it should show no lien, and its VIN should match the dash and the driver's door jamb.
- If you are still interested, pay an independent mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. A seller who refuses one is telling you something.
Now get the checklist for your car
Every model year has its own known faults: a transmission that shudders, a recall that was never done, an engine that drinks oil. Pick the make, model, and year to see what owners of that car reported. Not sure which car to go and see? Start with the most reliable used cars on Auto Reliability Index.